I first shared this post over to Rustic Reclaimed but because it’s something so useful and easy, I wanted to share it here on the new blog as well.
I wanted a cost-effective way to try out a black finishing wax, I had just purchased an amazing dark wax from Minwax but it’s brown & I really wanted to try black. Especially for all of my personal home projects I’ve started. Instead of heading out the door and spending more money, I figured I’d try my hand at making some from what I had already around the house. I’ve since then tried Country Chic Paint’s black wax and it’s amazing. (but I now prefer to use glaze instead of wax) but lots of people prefer wax so I figured I would still share this here since it’s something you can make yourself at home.
What you’ll need to make your own dark antiquing wax using all natural ingredients!
- Pot on stove or melting pot / double boiler. (I prefer to use an old pot designated for this type of stuff)
- Beeswax (This is the hardening ingredient) (There are vegan options)
- Coconut Oil (or any oil really. I like that coconut oil hardens on its own so I didn’t have to add too much beeswax)
- Jojoba oil (Or extra virgin olive oil)
- Paint / India Ink (I used Crafter’s Acrylic) (I don’t think you need the ink, but I had it on hand so I gave it a go. You can buy some here, though, if you’d like.)
- Old spatula.
- Something to store your done wax in. (Like a baby jar or small container – Something with a wider opening is easier to get the wax out of.)(I used my old epicure jars but These would be perfect!)
I don’t have exact measurements, it’s all about personal preference. This will be something to play with until you find a consistency you like. I first had it too hard so I melted it back down and added more oil.
The general idea to keep it firm but pliable enough to work with is 2 parts oil to 1 part beeswax.
- Start by melting the beeswax. I used a 1 oz cube.
- Once it’s melted, add in your oils. (I did half coconut oil, half jojoba oil) Start with double what you used for beeswax. (try different amounts / let cool and harden & if it’s too hard, remelt & add more oil – if it’s too soft, add more beeswax.)
- Let cool & see the consistency. You want to be able to mix it up, either by hand or with an electric mixer. Soft enough that you can work with it but not so soft that it’s almost melty. 😉
- Once you’ve got it mixed up all nice & smooth, you can add in your paint / ink. I added a generous amount. Mix, Mix, Mix.
- Don’t add the paint or ink while the wax is still hot and melted. It won’t blend together.
- Wax soaks into raw wood best but will also work well on flat, milk or chalky type paints. I’ve got a pretty neat technique for working with it on other finishes as well that I will share in another post.
- Try applying it with a brush and a rag, see what works best for your project. I like to use a brush to push it into the details but a rag for edges. I usually keep a dry clean rag near by in case I need to wipe more off.
- Practice with it on a scrap piece of wood, preferably with your paint applied.
- Start small & work to more once you’re used to its consistency.
- A clear coat or polyacrylic should work overtop if for some reason your wax isn’t sinking into a piece. You can also wipe excess off. The colour should remain.
What you can use your new wax on,
- Edging, Detailing, Antiquing, Darkening.
- Furniture, signs, wood.
This recipe could also work for natural finishing wax as well but it would darken the colour of your piece.
What do you use Antiquing Wax for? Do you make your own? I’d love to hear from you in the comments below!
Happy Creating! ❤
This post contains affiliate links, which means if you make a purchase through one of my links, I earn a small referral commission. Thank you for supporting my blog.