I shared how I refreshed a gorgeous antique chair last week, using natural products that I had at home and decided that the refreshing furniture wax deserved its own post.
This wax is so simple to make and really makes a big difference when trying to refresh faded old wood. In some cases, I prefer the faded wood look, but if a piece is screaming for some hydration, then I happily oblige. Plus it helps to protect the wood because it hardens the surface as well as moisturizes it.
What you’ll need:
In an old pan on the stove, mix 1 part beeswax to 4 part oil. (This will make a firmer wax. For a softer wax, add 5 or 6 parts oil to the beeswax.) so 1 tbsp of beeswax to 4+ tbsp of oil.
For a faster alternative, you can put the ingredients in a microwave safe container and melt them that way as well. If I’m using the microwave, I go in 30 second intervals. I use the beeswax pastilles because they melt faster than a solid block does.
The coconut oil will melt at a much faster rate than the beeswax, so after every 30 seconds, I take it out and stir it, and put it back in until it’s all melted and combined. This small batch only took 90 seconds to melt.
Give it one last stir and pour into the container of your choosing. I used these awesome tins from Mountain Rose Herbs.
Leave it to set.
The beeswax is the hardening agent, so if the wax cures softer than you’d like, you can melt it back down and add in more beeswax, or If the solution cures too hard for your liking, melt it back down and add in more oil to soften it up. You can pour the solution into an old jar or tin. Apply with a dry, lint-free rag.
Before applying the wax, be sure the surface of the wood is clean and dry.
Apply with a dry, lint-free rag in circular motions. It should sink right in, but if there’s any left on the surface the next day you can buff it off with another clean lint-free rag. If your project is still looking a little dry after the wax is dried, you can always apply a second coat.
I like to apply a softer mix first so it really penetrates the surface and then apply a harder mix once that’s dry to make it shine again.
If your wax is too hard, you can melt it back down and add more oils or you can heat it up a bit, before use, for smoother sailing.
Be sure the surface you are working on is clean, dust-free and dry.
Some people suggest working the wax in with a boot brush but I personally prefer to use a rag. If the piece you’re working on is huge, then by all means, try both ways to see which is better for you.
I hope this post is found useful! Thanks so much for stopping by!
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